63 Plus 4 RoadsterOlder but perfectly kept every nut and bolt ground up restored.
- chrome wire wheels
- flow-through low-restriction headers and exhaust system
- twin, correct SU carburetors with Morgan crest
- Toyota dual disc brakes
- hi-torque starter
- rebuilt Triumph TR-3A 2138 cc engine
- Moss 4- speed transmission
- ¾ race tune, balanced. Blueprinted engine
- electric fan with auto/off feature
- Lucas 3-point headlights
- Pirelli P3 Cinturato tires
- highly detailed, but stock engine compartment
- carpeted storage
- air dam in front to direct air to radiator
- Fergus Motors dealer badge
- Bumper overriders front and rear
- headlight stone guards
- Lucas flamethrower 3/part headlights
Ground up restoration by The Works, Santa Clara (body and paint), mechanical and maintainence by Greg Solow’s Engine Room and Patrick Mannion, none better.
- Double-earred knock off
- Leather Package
- Leather seats
- Natural Wood Dash
- Wood rimmed steering wheel
Car has 2 windscreen setups: The most interesting is a distinctive raised Brooklands windshield bar, with 2 custom tear-drop mirrors. The other is a completely stock, un-used NOS top, windshield and side windows. Car has a boot and a full tonneau. Also a badge bar, un-used, in its own case; and an additional custom case- not sure for what. Included is a left side mirror to attach with the original windshield; plus an easy-to-install vacuum rear view mirror for inside the car.
It is one of the best-driving Morgans. Fast, great cornering, rattle-free. Originally sold through Fergus Motors, N. Broadway, New York, the only U.S. dealer at the time. Comes with original correspondence from 1962-3 from the dealer, including base price and options. Has won several local car shows and concours events.
Documents include original brochure, original price list, Melvyn Rutter catalog; Morgan Spares parts catalog, and all other receipts (not many, since driven so little).
|Engine:||2138cc 4 cylinder TR3 engine|
|Exterior Color:||British Racing Green|
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Morgan +4 Operating Information
Put in neutral. Do not depress the clutch (to avoid clutch wear.) Pull out and hold the choke. Turn key and let the fuel pump begin for 2 seconds.
Then, turn on the engine. Continue to hold the choke for 8-10 seconds.
Car runs best on 100+ octane fuel. You may choose to use an octane booster. Runs on 91, but sometimes will ‘diesel’ or run on for a second when engine is turned off.
Unscrew the black knurled knob on each of the 2 carbs. Remove with attached rod and brass plunger set. With your finger raise the slide, the first obstruction just inside the carb throat; gently push up with finer while watching the hole- you will see a small tube/cylinder. Fill that tube almost to the top. 1/16” below the top is good, not critical. Use a light weight oil…5 wt or SU carb oil. Make sure slides are free and the tubes oiled. Slide down. Replace and tighten the black knob.
Use a knock off hammer to loosen the wheels before jacking the car up.
Knock off in the direction of the wheels forward rotation. To the right on the right passenger side; to the left on the driver’s side.
Place scissor jack under the intersection of chassis crossmembers.
Take off spinner and wheel
Change every 5k miles or once a year.
Chassis lubrication and bolt tightening once a year.
Transmission- have included ‘gear oil’
Carbs- have included car oil
Fire extinguisher included.